THE MINI MAG. Volume 2 No.5
  May 2000

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Helpful Hints.
with Jim Haydon.
The following articles are sourced from personal experience, experiences of others, plus publications by B.M.C., Leyland, Rover, Scientific Publications, Australian Classic Car, U.K. Practical Classics, Sports and Classic Cars Aust., Paul Hamlyn, Gregory’s Publications and others.

SHORT CUTS TO SOME MINI PROBLEMS.
COOLING ASSISTANCE FOR ENGINES USING WATER:
Use an authentic looking expansion tank, such as one from a Leyland Marina, and place it as high as possible on the firewall. On early Minis, where the plastic washer bottle is located is the best spot.

Remove the rubber washer from the radiator cap so that water is free to expand and flow back to the top tank via a length of rubber tubing connecting the original overflow pipe to the top tank. Fasten with clamps as the water will be pressurised. Top up only at the top tank.

Place the washer bottle adjacent to the brake master cylinder. A Marina top tank and radiator cap can be obtained cheaply from a wrecking yards. Make sure there is enough room left to remove the radiator cap when you mount the tank.

BURNING OUT INDICATOR, HORN, HEADLIGHT DIPPING COMBINATION SWITCH:
This can be caused by additional electrical resistance in old wiring looms causing heating of the locating rivets and their ultimate loosening as the plastic melts. This cuts power passing through the switch.

The problem can also be caused by running additional driving lights through the high beam circuit. The remedy is to fit relays to the high and low beam circuits. A “New Era” combination relay looks period and isn’t too expensive. Suggest using heavy wire to take power direct from the solenoid. This alteration can also improve headlamp efficiency.

BROKEN ENGINE MOUNTINGS:
Often breaking of engine and rear gearbox extension mounts can be caused by loose or worn stabiliser bar bushes. Early Minis have one on the driver’s side near the master cylinders. Later Minis have a second on the passenger side going from the thermostat housing to the firewall. Looseness of these bushes causes engine mount breakage and in some instances buckling up of the floor on the driver or passenger side where the subframe bolts on. Rust in the floor exaggerates the latter. To remedy loosen bushes and using a heavy hammer belt the floor back to where it should be. Replace and tighten all mounts and bushes.

Some overseas built Minis have a stabiliser on the right side of the gearbox to the body. Cooper, Cooper S, Deluxe, Mini K, have a solid gear change extension which is rubber mounted to the rear. Loose stabiliser bushes cause this rear rubber mount to break. Sometimes the extension can work loose, strip the four mounting bolts near the differential and also crack the housing or extension. Check for signs of this happening when under your Mini.

ACCELERATOR CABLE:
A broken cable can be replaced by a bicycle hand brake cable cut to the appropriate length.

CLUBMAN OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLES:
The ‘lift up’ type door handles were also fitted to some late Mk2 Cooper S and Mini K models. The hinged lift up part is located by two diecast pins which wear out, loosen or fall out. A simple repair to this problem is to remove the handle, drill out the bare minimum on the part affixed to the door and the hinged section to take a snug, but not tight fitting, split pin or small bolt and nut.

Lubricate on assembly and when servicing the car.

Jim.